
Solid Dish Soap Bar Recipe: How to Make a Zero Waste Dishwashing Soap
Learn how to make a zero waste dishwashing soap bar. An eco-friendly solid dish soap bar recipe will not only help to save money, it also reduces waste and your impact on the environment. Like you’d expect from a liquid dish soap, this cold process dish soap recipe gives you plenty of suds, and it cuts through grease to thoroughly clean your dishes. Learn about the different methods for making solid dish soap at home to help you cut costs while also helping the environment. Plus why I prefer to make a cold process dishwashing soap to other soap making methods.
Why Should I Use Solid Dish Soap?
There are two constants in life: dishes and laundry. Okay, so there’s a third one, taxes, but I digress.
Doing the dishes isn’t my favorite task. Sure, I can run the dishwasher for most dishes, but sometimes I don’t have enough dishes or I have dirty dishes that can’t go through the dishwasher.
Since I’m a DIY kind of girl, I’ve made several homemade dish soap recipes. I had just about given up on an effective, sudsing homemade dish soap when I made this solid dish soap bar.
We’ve gotten so used to using liquid dish soap that my mind got stuck on making a liquid dish soap. Since I’m a cold process soap maker, I thought why not make a solid dish soap recipe? Success! I finally found a homemade dish soap that works and gives me the suds that I like. It also does an incredible job at cutting grease.
As a soap maker, I know that we don’t need suds to get clean. Soap suds are more for visual appeal than for actual cleaning. Soap suds are nothing more than soap molecules trapped in round air pockets. That air doesn’t clean, obviously, but it’s a visual cue that the soap is there.
Even though I know that suds do not equal cleaning, I still like seeing the suds when I’m doing dishes. It helps me know that I’m using soap, and that soap is cleaning my dishes. It’s purely psychological, but I’ve found that many people feel the same way that I do about their soap sudsing when they use it. This solid dishwashing soap not only gives me the suds I expect, it really does clean my dishes, regardless of how hard my water is here in Southwestern Virginia.
But why should I make the switch to a solid dish soap? There are three great reasons for this. Solid dish soap is eco-friendly. It’s also about as close to zero waste as you can get for a dishwashing soap. Which is important considering how much plastic pollutes our environment on a daily basis. It also saves money. So if you’re looking for a frugal way to cut household cleaning costs, this is a great way to get started.
What Makes Solid Dish Soap Eco Friendly?
Solid Dishwashing Soap Reduces Plastic Waste
As a society we create an enormous amount of waste in our day to day lives. Plastic waste is the worst culprit. As it doesn’t biodegrade — it takes over 400 years for plastic to degrade — it ends up not just in our landfills, but it also ends up in our oceans. And it’s a lot more than you might think. In fact, plastic waste currently covers 40% of our oceans, causing both ecological damage and harm to wildlife.
While recycling programs do exist, 91% of plastic is not recycled. If you consider how much plastic we use in our everyday lives, from shampoo bottles to dish soap containers and other cleaners, that’s a LOT of plastic. Even our disposable toothbrush handles and disposable straws are made from plastic.
Here are some of the many reasons why we should work to reduce plastic waste.
- 91% of all plastics are NOT recycled.
- 5.25 trillion pieces of marine trash have ended up in our oceans.
- 90% of all seabirds have eaten plastic. This up from just 5% of seabirds in 1960.
- Between 2000 and 2010 we made more plastic than all the plastic in history up to the year 2000.
- Plastic doesn’t biodegrade. The EPA reports that “every bit of plastic ever made still exists.”
- Marine animals both ingest and get tangled up in plastic. This can lead not just to injuries but also painful deaths.
- By 2050 the ocean will contain more plastic by weight than fish.
- Americans use 500 million plastic straws everyday. That’s enough to circle the Earth twice.
Luckily there are a number of ways to reduce plastic use. Making and using a solid dishwashing soap is one of those ways. Solid dish soap bars don’t require any packaging. So there about as close as you can get to being a zero waste product. While nothing is truly zero waste — we rely on packaged materials to make most products — it does significantly reduce the amount of waste we create. It’s also more economic to use solid dish soap bars in the long run. Thereby we not only help the environment, we can also save money.
Solid Dish Soap Can Reduce Palm Oil Use
Palm oil is in so many products we use everyday. It can be found in Crisco and peanut butter, bread, chips, soy milk and even soaps. In fact, it’s sometimes hard to located products that don’t contain palm oil, which is often coined as vegetable oil. Manufacturer’s love palm oil because it’s cheap. Unfortunately, its use harms the environment in a number of ways.
While there are numerous articles on the devastation the use of palm oil causes, these are the basics.
- It’s destroyed 3.5 million hectares of rainforest throughout Indonesia, Malaysia, and Papua New Guinea.
- The slash and burn agricultural process used to clear the land continues to burn the peat and other organic materials on Rainforest floors — even after the fires have been put out.
- The burning of Rainforests results in air pollution, which is sometimes toxic, and effects and affects health of those living in the area and contributes to global warming.
- Deforestation to grow and harvest palm oil threatens the habitats of endangered animals like orangutans and Sumatran tigers.
Therefore, by formulating and creating a solid dish soap bar without the use of palm oil, you can further reduce your impact on the environment, and create a more eco-friendly cleaning product. (Learn more about using palm oil in soap making.)
How Do I Make a Solid Dish Soap Bar?
What’s the Best Method for Making Dish Soap?
There are a number of ways to make a solid dish soap. This methods include various soap making methods such as hand-milled soap, melt and pour soap and cold process soap. There are also a number of formulations you can try that call for using surfactants instead, such as this solid dish washing brick.
While using a pre-existing soap base to make a solid dish soap bar is an easy way to get started, this method does have limitations. When you start with a pre-existing base, such a melt and pour soap base, you are hindered in fully customizing your final product. For starters, you can only add a certain number of ingredients to a melt and pour soap base before it starts to inhibit the lather. Likewise, while coconut oil is often added to cold process soap to increase the lather, as melt and pour soap does not go through the saponification process, it is unable to increase lather with its addition. It may make the soap more hydrating, however, hydrating is not want we want for sparkly clean dishes. It’s also often hard to avoid the use of palm oil, which is commonly found in most melt and pour soap bases.
Using surfactants is another option for making solid dishwashing soap. There are a number of gentle surfactants on the market today that can be combined with other ingredients such as washing soda to help it cut grease. However, not all surfactants are created equal. Not only is it possible they may irritate skin, they can also be more costly to procure. In addition, there is some concern that they may harm marine life depending on the product and amount used. Further, when making a surfactant based dish soap bar, a preservative is also required, thus adding to the cost of the final product. Not to mention, surfactants aren’t really an eco-friendly ingredient. They are typically made using fossil fuels, and even surfactants claiming to be eco-friendly are often created using palm oil, or derived from some form of palm oil.
A more economical, and eco-friendly, way to make solid dishwashing soap is to create a dish soap bar recipe from scratch using the cold process soap making method. While making cold process soap may seem scary at first, it’s actually easier than you might think. (I personally freaked myself out about using lye for years before I finally took a plunge.) This way of making homemade dish soap bars allows you to customize a solid dishwashing soap from the very beginning. So you not only save money, but you get a product that has all of the properties you want in a dish soap, and none of the ones you don’t.
If you still aren’t comfortable making cold process soap from scratch, not to worry. Another alternative for making homemade dish soap is use an existing cold process soap bar or a rebatch soap base. These types of soap tend to retain their ability to lather better than most melt and pour soap bases, which are formulated for use on skin and aren’t equipped to handle a lot of additives. By hand milling or rebatching an existing soap, such as a 100% coconut oil soap, and adding similar ingredients to my cold process dishwashing soap bar recipe, you can still create a dishwashing product that yields similar results. (I’ll be covering this process in another post.) Alternately, Life-n-Reflection has a super easy recipe for making a melt and pour solid dish soap.
What Are the Best Ingredients for Dishwashing Soap?
All soap making oils have different properties when used to make cold process soap from scratch. Once saponified, these properties become evident. Some soap making oils help create a hard bar while others are extra cleansing, give soap a fluffy lather, a stable lather, or add skin conditioning properties. Therefore, choosing which oils to create a solid dish soap bar does matter. You want your solid dishwashing soap to clean your dishes but not totally destroy your hands in the process. This can be a delicate balance.
Coconut Oil
Most soap making oils help to produce a stable lather and offer some level of conditioning. There are a few oils that don’t add any skin conditioning properties to soap when making cold process soap. Those oils include babassu oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, palm oil and palm kernel oil. As I wanted my solid dish soap bars to be palm free, I opted for using coconut oil as the main ingredient in my dishwashing soap recipe.
The properties of coconut oil in soap making are as follows:
- Produces a hard soap bar.
- Creates a cleansing soap.
- Gives soap a fluffy lather.
- Results in a quick trace.
As coconut oil is highly cleansing, it is often used for natural cleaning recipes, including homemade laundry stain removers.
If you are allergic to coconut oil, you can use babassu oil in its place. It has the same soap making properties as coconut oil, and therefore makes a suitable swap. However, you will need to run my solid dish soap bar recipe through a lye calculator if you need to make substitutions or resize the recipe. (Learn how to use a lye calculator to make cold process soap or change a recipe.)
Castor Oil
Where coconut oil produces a highly cleansing soap bar with a fluffy lather, it does not yield a stable lather. Coconut oil soap also offers no skin conditioning properties unless you use an incredibly high superfat. (The standard superfat for most homemade soaps is considered to be 5%, whereas for a 100% coconut oil soap you’d want to increase the amount to 20% to avoid stripping skin of its natural oils. You can learn more about how to make cold process soap and understanding superfatting in soap making here.)
In order to add some stability to the lather of my solid dish soap bar, I therefore add castor oil to my solid dishwashing soap recipe. Most soap makers add castor oil to soap to create more bubbles. Castor oil also offers some level of skin conditioning, though not so much your dishes don’t get clean.
The soap making properties of castor oil are:
- Produces a stable lather.
- It has skin conditioning properties.
- Results in a quick trace.
Lime Juice
Like all cold process soap, you need both fats and an alkali to make soap. The fats in my solid dish soap bar recipe are the coconut and castor oils. The alkali, is the lye or sodium hydroxide. A liquid, however, is required to dissolve the lye before you mix it with the fats, or soap making oils or butters you’ve chosen for your recipe. This is commonly water, however, you can also use cow or goat milk, coconut milk or another liquid of your choice.
As I wanted to develop a solid dishwashing soap bar that not only got dishes clean, but also helped to cut grease, I substituted part of the water in my solid dish soap recipe with lime juice. Limes are naturally acidic, so they work they work to naturally kill germs. Lime juice is also a great grease fighter, so it can remove grease on your dishes.
(Based on feedback from several readers, you cannot substitute lemon juice for the lime juice in my solid dish soap recipe. I also recommend using fresh squeeze lime juice unless you can source lime juice that has nothing added to preserve the freshness of the product.)
Citric Acid
I also added citric acid to my solid dish soap recipe for its natural cleansing benefits. Citric acid naturally kills bacteria, mildew, and mold. This makes it a wonderful, all natural disinfectant to use when washing dishes. Additionally, citric acid also removes hard water spots, lime, rust, and soap scum. Therefore, if you have hard water, you’ll definitely appreciate the citric acid in my solid dishwashing soap recipe.
Citrus Essential Oils
For a natural scent, I used lime essential oil and mandarin essential oil. Not only does it smell great, but both scents are uplifting and refreshing. Lime is a natural degreaser, so it also helps remove stubborn grease from dishes. Mandarin essential oil not only smells great, but it’s also a natural antiseptic.
There’a a lot to learn about essential oils in soap making as different essential oil have different usage rates. These usage rates also vary based on the application. Lime essential oil can be use at a maximum of 25% of the oil weight in soap. While mandarin essential oil has a max usage rate of 5%. I chose to used these essential oils at a 2.5% usage rate (or .4 oz. per pound) for the two combined. Therefore, if desired, you can increase the amount of essential oils used to 5% for this dishwashing soap recipe by doubling the amount called for in the recipe.
It is important to keep in mind, however, that some essential oils do have lower usage rates than the ones I chose for my cold process soap recipe. Therefore, if you decide to swap out the essential oils I used for my solid dish soap bars, then be sure to refer to your supplier on safe usage rates in soap. It’s also important to note that not all essential oils are considered skin safe, even when diluted. You can learn more about how to safely and confidently use essential oils via Simply Earth’s Essential Oil Hero Course here.
Now that you understand about why I chose the ingredients I used to create my dishwashing soap, here’s my solid dish soap bar recipe so you can make your own! (This recipe does contain 1% superfat which equates to about 10% superfat in the final bar to negate some of the harsh cleansing properties of coconut oil on skin. For reduced superfat levels in the final bar after the acids, see the tips for hard water section below.)
Solid Dish Soap Bar Recipe
Yield: Around 3.06 lb. before the cure (plus the weight of citric acid & zest)
Ingredients:
3.2 oz. castor oil (10%)
28.8 oz. refined 76° melt point coconut oil (90%)
8.5 oz. distilled or filtered water (33% of oil weight when combined with lime juice)
5.6 oz. sodium hydroxide/lye (1% superfat)
2 Tablespoons citric acid
2 oz. lime juice, from 2 limes
2 teaspoons lime zest, optional
.6 oz. lime essential oil
.2 oz. mandarin essential oil
Tools & Materials:
Digital scale
Non-aluminum heat safe containers
Immersion blender
Silicone soap molds
Glass measuring cup
Measuring spoons
Thermometer
Spatula
Soap Making Notes:
Soap Making Molds for This Project
I recommend using silicone soap molds with individual cavities for my dish soap bar recipe rather than a loaf soap mold. This will help prevent your soap from overheating. It will also give you bars that fit inside a kitchen soap dish. I used two separate molds when making my solid dishwashing soap to illustrate options for use. This recipe yielded a combination six flower shaped soap bars using the larger of these silicone molds and seven round dish soap bars from this round silicone soap mold. You can, of course, use any soap making molds you like. But you will need molds that can hold just over 3 lbs. of soap.
Cautions on Not Using Pyrex Glass Measuring Cups for Mixing & Heating
In addition, I do not recommend using any Pyrex for this project as it has been known to explode. (Apparently this is only an issue with newly produced Pyrex and not the vintage Pyrex which was made differently.) This typically happens when it is being heated.
Unfortunately, I recently had this experience and I wasn’t even making soap. In fact, I had just placed nested Pyrex measuring cups (2 quart, 1 quart and 1 cup) in the floorboard of my car for transport as I have many times before. My car was not at all hot. As I was driving down the road, the bowls rattled a bit. No more than they usually do when I take them down from a shelf or out of the cabinet. The second time they rattled, the largest of the Pyrex exploded. It didn’t break, it literally exploded. (Ignore the wine bottle. I bought it to make infused vinegar. Isn’t it pretty?)
Now you may be thinking what I’d first considered. That the Pyrex simply broke into pieces. Upon close inspection, however, it was clear this was more than a glass bumping into something and breaking. The damage was such that it appeared someone had stood in a chair and slammed the container onto concrete. The handle, which is super thick, looked like it had been cracked apart and glued back together. So yes, most assuredly, my Pyrex exploded. I’m just thankful it didn’t happen as I was taking them down from a shelf…
Information on How to Safely Make Cold Process Soap
My solid dish soap is made using the cold process soap making method. If you’ve never made soap using this method, you can learn how to make cold process soap here, as well as find advice and important safety tips. As lye, or sodium hydroxide, is caustic, you do need to take care when making soap. This includes wearing eye protection, gloves and avoiding use of any and all aluminium containers, molds and utensils. (When you combine aluminium and sodium hydroxide they react to form salt and hydrogen gas. Hydrogen gas is extremely dangerous and can eat through metal. So please check all your containers carefully.)
Directions on How to Make Solid Dishwashing Soap Bars Using the Cold Process Soap Making Method:
Using a digital scale, start by weighing out the coconut oil for the solid dish soap recipe. Place into a heat safe container, such as a non-aluminum stock pot.
Then weigh out the castor oil and add to the container of coconut oil.
Heat the coconut and castor oils over medium-low to medium heat until melted on the stovetop in a stainless steel pot. Once melted, remove the oils from the heat and set aside to cool.
In the meantime, measure out the water into a separate heat safe container. (You don’t want to use Pyrex to mix the lye, therefore a stainless steel pitcher or heat safe plastic container is recommended for mixing.) Then, using a third container, weigh out the lye.
Slowly pour the lye into the water in a well ventilated area. Mix well to combine, until all of the lye has dissolved. Set the lye-water aside to cool.
Now, measure out the lime juice into a glass measuring cup. Measure out the citric acid using a measuring spoon and mix into the lime juice into it dissolves.
Weigh out the essential oils next. Then stir them into the lime juice and citric acid mixture. Set aside.
Once the lye-water and the melted oils both reach a temperature of around 100°F to 110°F, you’re ready to make your solid dish soap. (Ideally you want both the lye-water and soap making oils to be within 10°F of one another.)
Remix the lime juice, essential oil and citric acid mixture with a utensil. Then pour it into the soap making oils. Add the lime zest.
Now mix them all together using an immersion or stick blender until fully incorporated.
Carefully pour the lye-water into the soap making oils. Then mix with the immersion blender until you reach a light to medium trace. (You’ll know you’ve reached trace when you drag your blender across the top of the soap and it leaves a trail behind it. It will be similar to the consistency of pudding.)
Working quickly, pour the soap into the molds of your choice. Use a spatula to smooth out the tops. (This soap will trace and set up fast. So have those molds ready to go!)
Allow the solid dish soap bars to set up in the molds overnight. You can then unmold your solid dishwashing soap bars the next day.
Once you unmold the solid dish soap, allow your soaps to cure in a cool, dry location over a period of four weeks prior to use.
Once your solid dishwashing soaps have cured, they are ready to be used!
Tips for Hard Water: If you have hard water and need extra bubbles, you can safely increase the amount of lye to 5.85 oz. This reduces the final superfat to 5% when taking the acids in the recipe into account. While the final bar will not be lye heavy, it will have additional cleansing power that may be overly harsh on skin as it will strip skin of its natural oils, especially when you consider coconut oil’s extremely high cleansing properties.
Alternately, you may also use 6.1 oz. of lye for an end superfat of about 1% after the acids. (Please run the recipe through a lye calculator that includes acids to double check these numbers if you have access to one when reducing the superfat to this percentage to avoid a lye heavy bar.)
How to Use Zero Waste Solid Dish Soap Bars
I grew up watching my mom fill the sink with hot water and squirting in dish soap to create a mound of bubbles. With each dish that she added, washed, and rinsed, the water got cooler and the suds got fewer. Eventually, she was left with cold water with barely any soap left.
You’ll use this solid dish soap bar a little differently. Instead of filling the sink with hot, soapy water, simply soak an eco-friendly sponge with hot water. Then rub it over the solid soap, and wash your dishes. When the sponge runs out of soap, rub it over the soap and keep cleaning. This solid dishwashing soap works wonderfully with these eco-friendly walnut scrubber sponges. (Learn how you can get these sponges, and an eco-friendly cleaning set, free here.)
Alternately, you can also use a palm scrub brush or wet cleaning scrubber as you ordinarily would. However, instead of the filling the soap dispenser with liquid soap, you’d simply drop in your solid dish soap bar. This bubble up dish soap dispenser and brush set pairs perfectly with solid dish soap bars.
There’s also a third way to use this homemade dish soap bar: as a powder. If you prefer to fill up a sink with hot water so you can let dishes soak for a while, or just like doing dishes that way, you can turn this solid dishwashing soap into a powder. Since it’s a low moisture soap, it will grate well. Just grate a bar into a fine powder and add a tablespoon under the hot water as you’re filling the sink. It will create a sink full of suds and works well to get your dishes clean.
Solid Dish Soap Bar Recipe

Learn how to make an eco-friendly, zero waste solid dish soap bar recipe to naturally clean your dishes. This cold process dishwashing won't harm the environment and also reduces plastic waste in your daily cleaning routine.
Materials
- 3.2 oz. castor oil (10%)
- 28.8 oz. refined 76° melt point coconut oil (90%)
- 8.5 oz. distilled or filtered water (33% of oil weight when combined with lime juice)
- 5.6 oz. sodium hydroxide/lye (1% superfat)
- 2 Tablespoons citric acid
- 2 oz. lime juice, from 2 limes
- 2 teaspoons lime zest, optional
- .6 oz. lime essential oil
- .2 oz. mandarin essential oil
Tools
- Digital scale
- Non-aluminum heat safe containers
- Immersion blender
- Silicone soap molds
- Measuring spoons
- Glass measuring cup
- Thermometer
- Spatula
Instructions
- Weigh out the coconut oil and castor oil. Place into a non-aluminum stock pot.
- Heat the soap making oils over medium-low to medium heat. Once melted, remove from heat and set aside.
- Measure out the water into a separate heat safe container. Then, weigh out the lye and add to a third container.
- Pour the lye into the water. Mix until all of the lye has dissolved. Set aside to cool.
- Measure out the lime juice into a measuring cup. Measure out the citric acid using measuring spoons and mix into the lime juice into it dissolves.
- Weigh out the essential oils, then stir them into the lime juice and citric acid mixture. Set aside.
- Once the lye-water and the melted oils have cooled to around 100°F to 110°F, you’re for the next step.
- Remix the lime juice, essential oil and citric acid mixture with a utensil. Add the lime zest. Then pour it into the soap making oils.
- Mix them together using an immersion blender until fully incorporated.
- Pour the lye-water into the soap making oils. Mix with the immersion blender until you reach a light to medium trace.
- Pour the soap into the molds of your choice. Use a spatula to smooth out the tops.
- Allow the solid dish soap bars to set up in the molds overnight. Then unmold the next day.
- Allow your soaps to cure in a cool, dry location over a period of four weeks prior to use.
Natural Cleaning Products You Can Make At Home
If you like my zero waste recipe for making solid dish soap bars, then you may also enjoy these eco-friendly cleaning tips using natural, non-toxic cleaners. Or try one of my other homemade cleaner recipes for natural cleaning products.
- Vinegar Free All Purpose Cleaner Recipe
- Deodorizing Room Spray Recipe with Essential Oils
- Stain Remover Recipe for Laundry Stains
- Natural Soft Scrub Cleaning Clay Recipe
- Homemade Laundry Detergent Recipe
- DIY All Purpose Cleaner with Essential Oils
- Homemade Floor Cleaners for Mopping
For more natural ways to clean your home and other homemaking tips and tricks, be sure to follow me on your favorite social media platforms. You can find me on facebook, twitter and instagram, as well as on Pinterest and Blog Lovin‘.
86 Comments
Elizabeth Adams
May 28, 2020 at 4:51 pm
Does this recipe leave a film on dishes? I made some 100% coconut oil soap and it left s terrible film and of course was extremely harsh on my hands.
Rebecca D. Dillon
May 28, 2020 at 8:51 pm
It’s not as harsh as 100% olive oil soap after the cure. However, it is more drying than bath soap. Therefore if that’s an issue, wear gloves when washing dishes. I included the citric acid, lime juice and eo’s so you wouldn’t get that film. However, I did hand dry all my dishes afterwards.
Ana
October 19, 2020 at 1:10 am
Does soap dry out your hands? It’s safe for sensitive skin?
Thanks for the recipe and the care for the environment
Rebecca D. Dillon
October 19, 2020 at 6:08 pm
It did not dry out my hands. As everyone’s skin is different it’s hard to say if it won’t irritate some people’s skin. Mine tends to be easily irritated by fragrances and I had no issue when using this soap.
Stephanie
January 9, 2021 at 8:59 pm
I am guessing I can’t use fractionated coconut oil for this recipe?
Rebecca D. Dillon
January 12, 2021 at 1:44 pm
Coconut oil and fractionated coconut are two different oils. I cannot vouch for whether this would work or not. Also you would need to run it back through a lye calc.
Les
September 23, 2021 at 7:48 pm
I made this soap and followed it exactly. It heat up too much and cause a volcano. Do you think freezing the water amount into ice cubes would help?
Rebecca D. Dillon
September 25, 2021 at 1:05 pm
I’ve not heard of this causing a volcano. At what point is it getting overheated? Assuming you followed the directions and weighted everything correctly, I’d simply pop it into the fridge or freezer after pouring it into the mold. The lye-water shouldn’t volcano as you’re only mixing the water with the lye. The lemon juice is added to the soap fats.
Karen Urbandki
May 29, 2020 at 8:48 am
Do I,use fresh zest or should it be dried?
Rebecca D. Dillon
May 29, 2020 at 11:01 am
I used fresh. However, it doesn’t matter either way since it goes through the saponification process. I used fresh squeezed lime juice, so I zested my limes. There are likely more oils in it fresh, though.
Lesley
October 4, 2021 at 6:42 am
Hello, I do love this recipe. Only thing is it is leaving spots on dishes. Any advice on how to not have this happen? I do not have hard water, rinse in really hot water. Also I did not use the EO’s suggested could that be the issue?
Rebecca D. Dillon
October 5, 2021 at 4:23 pm
I have hard water and haven’t had any issues. The eo’s may help with clarity in this case. You can also increase the lye for a lower superfat as needed.
Christie
May 31, 2020 at 1:48 pm
I love this post so much and how it brings awareness to zero waste! We can all do our part and this is a great idea.
A Life Adjacent
June 1, 2020 at 1:41 am
This is a wonderful idea, Rebecca! Who knew dish soaps could be so pretty? Love that it’s eco-friendly, too.
Heidi | The Frugal Girls
June 2, 2020 at 7:46 pm
What a great idea! I love how you added lime juice, too… I bet it smells AMAZING!!
Angie
April 2, 2021 at 11:10 am
I have a hard time with zero waste soap making. All of the oils you buy come in plastic containers… Wouldn’t it be more environmentally friendly to buy bar soap? I would love feedback on this and maybe ideas of how to buy oils without plastic!
Rebecca D. Dillon
April 2, 2021 at 12:04 pm
Buying from someone who produces bar soap also has similar issues with packaging for raw materials. However, if you are making it yourself and buy in bulk, you can make hundreds of soap bars versus buying hundreds of plastic bottles of dish detergent. Just this tiny 2 lb. recipe made 6 soap bars. So you’ll be able to get a lot of soap just from what you buy for this project as you’ll have materials leftover. You can also source your materials from suppliers who work to reduce waste as well. However, at this point in time, there’s just no way to completely avoid plastic in the industry as it’s used heavily in manufacturing. What you can do is cut consumption, which is what this allows you to do because there’s no end product packaging.
Kai
June 8, 2020 at 12:23 pm
Did you compensate with additional lye when adding citric acid and lime juice to this recipe to prevent the acids from neutralizing the sodium hydroxide? If so by how much?
Thanks!
Kai
Rebecca D. Dillon
June 9, 2020 at 2:17 pm
I did not for this recipe. Increasing the lye to account for the citric acid so there’s 0% superfat makes this especially drying on skin. As I hate wearing gloves when doing dishes (and I know others dislike it as well) I chose to leave the extra superfat it created.
Rosemary
June 8, 2020 at 4:09 pm
I love this eco friendly option! I am always looking for ways to be more eco friendly!
Rosemary
June 18, 2020 at 9:33 am
It is so interesting that you don’t need the suds– we all are conditioned to think it is the suds that make things clean!
Stacey Carlson
July 21, 2020 at 12:33 pm
I can’t wait to make this recipe! I was curious if you have tried with vinegar and baking soda to make a bar soap. IF so any recipe suggestions ?
Rebecca D. Dillon
July 21, 2020 at 1:00 pm
Baking soda, like the citric acid, is going to counteract the saponification process. So if you’d like to use both baking soda and citric acid, then I recommend a negative superfat. Otherwise use one or the other. Alternately, you can use either baking soda and/or citric acid in a rebatch soap recipe. I would not use vinegar as it will break down the soap over time.
Felicia Gray
December 11, 2020 at 11:04 pm
I need to resize this batch. I started to and decided to use soapee calc to do so but I do know how much citric acid to add and how much of the lime juice to substitute for the water. My mold holds 46 ounces max.
Rebecca D. Dillon
December 13, 2020 at 2:19 pm
Figure the % of the lime juice to the water amoun and the citric acid to the oil weight, then apply those percentages to the new amounts for your recipe.
Vicky
August 3, 2020 at 5:19 pm
I was really excited to make this recipe. I substituted lemon for lime as I couldn’t get any. Unfortunately, after I poured it into my molds, it seemed to heat up and had really weird blotches that were soft. I thought it would go away, but the next morning, unmolded them and had the same issue. When I cut one in half, the dark patches were a really odd gooey mess. I couldn’t rebatch as the coconut was going hard at the top away from the heat, before I could get a proper amount out. Really dissapointed.
Rebecca D. Dillon
August 4, 2020 at 12:23 pm
Yeah, you can’t sub the lime for lemon. Someone else tried it and it didn’t work out either. The combo of lemon juice and citric acid doesn’t work chemistry wise. I haven’t had any success using lemon juice and citric acid in a rebatch soap either. However, I have had several folks send me photos of their success replicating the recipe as is.
Vicky
August 4, 2020 at 3:44 pm
Hmmm. Strange, since lemons and limes have almost the same amount of citric acid if squeezed fresh. Lemons have 1.44 g/oz and Limes 1.38 g/oz.
Rebecca D. Dillon
August 4, 2020 at 5:06 pm
I have no idea what the difference is that causes it not to work, assuming the directions were followed exactly. It’s possible the mold also makes a difference, if there was overheating.
Christie
August 12, 2020 at 10:47 pm
This is such a fantastic soap bar recipe to help Mother Nature out! I love this and I will bookmark for the future!
Lori
October 4, 2020 at 1:39 am
Would Key Limes work? We have a BIG tree!
Rebecca D. Dillon
October 5, 2020 at 12:53 pm
Yes, absolutely!
Megan
August 30, 2020 at 5:12 pm
Are the essential oils absolutely essential or can it be made without them?
Rebecca D. Dillon
August 30, 2020 at 6:16 pm
You can make it without the essential oils. However, they do add extra grease cutting power.
Karen Urbanski
October 1, 2020 at 9:54 pm
I made tonight in Christmas ramekins I found in my stash . So excited to try although one started beading looked sweat hopefully ok.
Prudence Weaver
October 7, 2020 at 12:55 pm
I have to know where you got that adorable flowered cup you have the soap in on the top picture?
Rebecca D. Dillon
October 7, 2020 at 1:56 pm
I bought it online here.
Emily
October 14, 2020 at 5:50 pm
Hello! I made the batch almost exactly as listed (had to sub grapefruit essential oil and bergamot for the mandarin essential oil because I didn’t have any) and it turned out great! Smells like dish soap and looks beautiful. My question: Can I make this recipe as hot process? Thanks so much!
Rebecca D. Dillon
October 14, 2020 at 5:59 pm
That’s great news! I don’t see why you couldn’t make it as hot process. Although you’d likely need to increase the water and add the citric acid after the cook.
Deborah Flores
November 12, 2020 at 10:37 am
I’m going to try this. Where did you get the cup that has the flowers growing on it? I want to buy me one!!!
Rebecca D. Dillon
November 12, 2020 at 12:50 pm
It’s from a Bubble Up Dish Soap Dispenser & Brush Set from Grove. That one was seasonal. They offer different designs throughout the year.
Athena
December 16, 2020 at 11:46 pm
I would love to make this, but I am in Australia and we use the metric system. When I convert your oz to grams I get odd numbers. Can you please provide measurements in metric?
Rebecca D. Dillon
December 17, 2020 at 2:49 pm
If you put the recipe into soapcalc.net it will give you the amount in both ounces and grams. Then just round up or down accordingly, if needed.
Gwen
January 5, 2021 at 6:53 pm
Could you use a 4 ounce mason jar to pour your soap in as a solid bar Dish?
Rebecca D. Dillon
January 5, 2021 at 7:41 pm
That should work fine as long as it’s a wide mouth jar. You’ll need about 8 or 9 of them though.
Rhiannon
January 11, 2021 at 1:36 pm
Hi Rebecca,
I have a similar recipe to yours and find my soaps gets VERY thick soda ash on top. I cover them during the gel phase to eliminate air getting to them but the ash is still very thick. Do you have any solutions or tips to help keep the tops of my soaps fresh? The tops of my soaps are wha people see first unlike yours were the bottom silicone mold shape is the show stopper! Thanks in advance!
Rhiannon
Rebecca D. Dillon
January 12, 2021 at 1:34 pm
You can try a water discount to reduce soda ash. Temperatures can also make a difference. You can always wash or steam it off. Here are some posts that may help you. Explaining and preventing soda ash. Water discounting cold process soap.
Meghan
January 14, 2021 at 6:09 pm
Hey! Thanks for the recipe, do you know if it would make a difference if you used unrefined CO (still with a melting point of ~75)? Can’t wait to try this out!!
Rebecca D. Dillon
January 14, 2021 at 7:52 pm
Yes, you can use unrefined. I chose refined as this is soap and it typically costs less. However, you can do a straight swap if that’s what you have on hand.
Meghan
January 15, 2021 at 1:27 pm
Amazing! Going to whip up a batch tomorrow, thanks for the quick reply!
Alex Bayley
January 22, 2021 at 2:06 am
Hi Rebecca, I was looking for a coconut-oil-based dish soap and this looks like a great recipe! A quick question about the lime juice and citric acid: my high school chemistry suggests to me that acid+base = salt + fizz, and that the acidic nature of those ingredients will be negated by the lye. In your answer to Kai above, where you talking about adding more lye to account for those ingredients, you imply that this is the case. If so, how does the soap retain the grease-stripping and disinfecting qualities of the acids that you describe in the intro? I’ve seen similar suggestions in other soap recipes (including powdered laundry soap) and wonder if I’m missing something special about soap chemistry.
Rebecca D. Dillon
January 26, 2021 at 12:24 pm
There’s not enough acid to completely negate the effects. If there was, you wouldn’t end up with soap. I tried this using a rebatch soap base with both juice and citric acid and it nearly completely unsaponifies the entire thing because of this. Plus coconut oil is a very high cleansing oil, thus why it was chosen. You can, however, increase the amount of lye to reduce the final superfat to 5% as per the notes for a more cleansing soap. Or for 1% superfat after the acids you can increase the lye to 6.1 oz. It would be extremely cleansing though and definitely dry out your hands. Which works if you wear gloves, but I can’t stand them. I’d run the recipe back through a lye calc that accounts for acids however just to be sure on that number. Also it would make for an extremely hard soap so I don’t recommend using a loaf mold.
Martin
January 24, 2021 at 5:44 pm
Hello! I’ve been dipping my toe into making cold process soaps for a while and I like to use lard/animal fat in my soaps (lamb/sheep fat seems to have the best results for me) as otherwise it would be (mostly) wasted.
Could I use lard in the above recipe? I didn’t see anything that really deviates from ‘normal’ practice, but I’d like your thoughts on it.
Rebecca D. Dillon
January 26, 2021 at 12:28 pm
I don’t recommend sheep fat for this recipe. It won’t come out the same, if at all. Sheep fat has a very low cleansing properties in comparison to coconut oil and it also makes for a softer soap.
Rachael Scott
January 28, 2021 at 12:29 pm
Could you make these in ramekins?
Rebecca D. Dillon
January 28, 2021 at 2:25 pm
Yes, you can.
Klara
January 28, 2021 at 8:09 pm
Great recipe!!
Do you think limonene instead of essential oil is a good substitution? or Lemon EO instead?
Sodium Carbonate will increase cleansing power or is useless in a CP soap?
Rebecca D. Dillon
January 28, 2021 at 9:11 pm
You try the lemon essential oil. I can’t say for sure how it will perform as I haven’t tried it. I have no experience with using sodium carbonate or washing soda in soap. I’ve only make baking soda soap and it does not make the soap more cleansing. For a more cleansing bar, I’d increase the amount of lye used per the notes.
Rachael Scott
January 28, 2021 at 8:55 pm
Thanks so much!
Debra
March 15, 2021 at 1:39 am
Just to clarify, I would like to resize this to fit my mould. You measure the Citric acid by volume or are you aiming for a certain percent of oils by weight?
And is the lime juice by weight as well?
Thanks.
Rebecca D. Dillon
March 15, 2021 at 2:43 pm
The lime juice is by fluid ounces. You would need to figure the percentage of citric acid to the weight of the oils used in the recipe then apply that percentage to the new oil amount to get the amount of citric acid for your recipe.
Debra
April 7, 2021 at 6:02 am
I made this soap and love using it however I’ve noticed an oily residue on my sink after washing dishes a couple times and need to scrub out my sink. I never got this with liquid soap.
Could this be due to the soft water in my town?
Is there any way to counteract this?
The soap works very well to clean my dishes.
Rebecca D. Dillon
April 7, 2021 at 9:37 am
I’ve not had this happen, but you can absolutely increase the amount of lye to prevent this in order to reduce the superfat. Per the notes, you can safely increase the amount of lye to 5.85 oz. This reduces the final superfat to 5% when taking the acids in the recipe into account. Alternately, you may also use 6.1 oz. of lye for an end superfat of about 1% after the acids. (Please run the recipe through a lye calculator that includes acids to double check these numbers if you have access to one when reducing the superfat to this percentage to avoid a lye heavy bar. I have not tested it at this amount.)
Debra
April 8, 2021 at 8:58 pm
Thanks! That’s what I was thinking if trying next, going to 5% super fat. I don’t have access to a lye calculator that takes acids into account so I’d rather play it safe.
Stacy Morales
May 10, 2021 at 11:54 am
Hi! I am curious if this needs to cure like body soap? Thanks!
Rebecca D. Dillon
May 10, 2021 at 12:01 pm
Yes, it still needs to cure for best results as it is a cold process soap.
Hill
May 24, 2021 at 5:22 pm
Can this recipe be made without the citric acid? I really want to make one with lime juice and coconut oil to be able to have a soap with simple ingredients I have on hand already. This is the best looking recipe I have found, but I don’t want to have to go buy citric acid for it. If so, would anything need to be adjusted to account for leaving the citric acid out? I am a newbie to soap making, so dumb it down for me. 😀
Rebecca D. Dillon
May 25, 2021 at 1:58 pm
Yes, you may omit the citric acid. However, make the recipe as is and don’t adjust to use more lye (as is mentioned in the notes.)
Angelique M Churilla
May 24, 2021 at 9:52 pm
I thought there was a recipe here for a coconut melt and pour base dish soap bar???
Rebecca D. Dillon
May 25, 2021 at 1:57 pm
You can find the link to an MP recipe at Life-n-Reflection here: https://www.lifenreflection.com/diy-dish-soap-bar-recipe/
Jaana
June 10, 2021 at 7:57 am
Hey! Can i pour the mixture straight into metal jars?
Rebecca D. Dillon
June 10, 2021 at 10:38 am
Yes, as long as it is not aluminum.
Kiersten
February 16, 2022 at 12:27 pm
Question- is it okay/safe if the metal pot has an encapsulated aluminum base? I’m having trouble finding a *completely* aluminum free pot, since stainless steel isn’t the greatest heat conductor:/
Rebecca D. Dillon
February 20, 2022 at 12:27 pm
As long as there is NO way for it to come into contact with the aluminum. It’s HIGHLY dangerous.
Sharla Dawn
August 15, 2021 at 8:56 pm
The first batch I made months ago turned out so good. I added lemon essential oil and it worked great!
My batch I made tonight turned out all lumpy except 1 bar. Can I take the lumpy ones and reheat and repour into the molds?
Rebecca D. Dillon
August 17, 2021 at 7:56 am
Assuming the issue is only aesthetic, you can grate and rebatch the soap with water.
Rose Beausoleil
October 21, 2021 at 3:08 pm
Can you pour this straight into glass jars? Or would you suggest sticking with non-aluminum?
Rebecca D. Dillon
October 21, 2021 at 5:55 pm
As long as your jars are tempered and can take the heat, you can pour them directly into glass jars.
Larisa Tolstykh
October 29, 2021 at 8:36 pm
Hello,
The recipe mentions that the water and the lye need to cool but it does not say to heat the water. Would you please comment?
Thank you!
Rebecca D. Dillon
November 2, 2021 at 7:45 pm
You do not heat the water. The water will heat up dramatically when you add the lye.
Jeanette Sheady
November 14, 2021 at 1:28 pm
I am new to this, can the recipe be cut in half as written?
Rebecca D. Dillon
November 14, 2021 at 6:39 pm
It’s a pretty small batch already. You can cut it in half, but you’ll have to run it back through a lye calc at 0-1% superfat (or less depending on what you want the final outcome to be.)
Laura
February 21, 2022 at 6:40 pm
Can I use d-Limonene instead of the lime essential oils?
Rebecca D. Dillon
February 22, 2022 at 5:14 pm
You can try it. However, I know there have been some issues with using lemon as a sub. So you may want to increase the lye slightly as directed in the notes.
ali
April 27, 2022 at 12:29 am
Hello, I made my first bar soap ever with your recipe sans zest, and with resounding success! Everyone loves the smell. I was curious if I wanted to make this as a liquid soap, do I do everything the same except switch out for KOH (run it through the calculator) and add the EOs after I’ve dissolved the finished paste in distilled water? Or should I not mess with this lovely recipe and just grate them as you suggested? Just wanted to attempt a liquid soap for my parents who didn’t want to fuss with measuring out some powdered version of it. Thank you so much!
Rebecca D. Dillon
April 29, 2022 at 10:53 am
I have no idea how this would perform with potassium hydroxide. You could always experiment with a small batch.
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