I may receive compensation from links on this site. As an Amazon Associate I also earn from qualifying purchases. See my disclosure policy.
Dead Sea Mud Soap Recipe for Oily Skin and Acne Prone Skin. This cold process dead sea mud soap recipe makes a great facial soap for oily or acne prone skin. Natural sea clay removes impurities and toxins while hazelnut oil acts as an astringent.

Natural Handmade Sea Mud Soap Recipe

November 19, 2013

Dead Sea Mud Soap Recipe for Oily Skin and Acne Prone Skin. This cold process dead sea mud soap recipe makes a great facial soap for oily or acne prone skin. Natural sea clay removes impurities and toxins while hazelnut oil acts as an astringent.Oily and acne prone skin can be a real drag. But fighting nature can sometimes be a constant battle. And many of the commercial products formulated to fight acne can sometimes do more harm than good. Ever had a zit cream get rid of your zit but leave your face feeling raw or even cause it to peel?

My solution was to create an all natural sea mud soap recipe made with astringent hazelnut oil and Sea Clay (also known as Sea Mud) to detoxify. There’s no added fragrance to this soap, however if you prefer a scented soap, simply add 1 – 2 oz. of your favorite fragrance oil. I recommend a fun Dirt scented fragrance or the unisex scent of Abalone & Sea. Or you can add 1/2 – 1 oz. of essential oil(s).

Dead Sea Mud Soap Recipe for Oily Skin and Acne Prone Skin. This cold process dead sea mud soap recipe makes a great facial soap for oily or acne prone skin. Natural sea clay removes impurities and toxins while hazelnut oil acts as an astringent.

Natural Sea Mud Soap Recipe for Oily/Acne Prone Skin

© Rebecca’s Soap Delicatessen


10.8 oz. grapeseed oil
7.2 oz. 102 degree melt point palm kernel flakes
9 oz. 76 degree point coconut oil
7.2 oz. hazelnut oil
1.8 oz. refined shea butter

5.2 oz. lye/sodium hydroxide
11 oz. distilled water

1.5 oz. sea clay


This sea mud soap recipe yields 10 – 12 very hard soap bars and will fit into one of my DIY wooden loaf soap molds. If you need to re-size this sea mud soap recipe to make a smaller batch, superfat at 6% and use the sea clay at 3% of your recipe. (You must always run the new oil amounts back through a lye calc to properly calculate the amount of lye needed!)

To create this soap you will need to follow my basic cold process soapmaking instructions. If you’ve never made soap before I recommend starting with a more basic recipe as found within my soapmaking tutorial as well as the books Soap Crafting Anne-Marie Faiola and The Soapmaker’s Companion by Susan Miller Cavitch.

Begin by lining your mold and taking all necessary safety precautions. Then measure out the distilled water into a large glass pyrex measuring cup or pitcher. Now, using a digital kitchen scale, weigh out the lye then slowly pour into the distilled water in a well ventilated area. Stir until all the lye has dissolved then set aside to cool.

Now weigh out the soapmaking oils and shea butter and combine in a large non-aluminum pot. Heat on the stove over medium heat until all ingredients have melted. Then remove from heat and allow to cool.

Once your lye-water and soapmaking oils have cooled to between 100 and 110 degrees, you can start making soap. Begin by weighing out the sea clay then adding it into the soapmaking oils. Mix with a stick blender until all of the dried mud is fully incorporated into the oils. Now slowly pour the lye-water into the soapmaking oils and mix until you reach trace.

Pour the soap into the mold, then cover and insulate for 24 hours. After this time you can unmold the soap and cut it into bars. {Learn how to make a soap cutting guide here.} Allow your homemade soaps to cure for 3-6 weeks, then wrap as desired with professional plastic food wrap film, Kraft paper, or even fabric, and label. If you’re making these to sell, you’ll need to include the weight of each bar of soap on your label.

Looking for other diy beauty recipes suited to oily or combination skin? You can also try my Natural Lemon & Basil Soap, Natural Tomato & Basil Soap, and Natural Activated Charcoal Soap Recipes. Or try my easy Natural Lemongrass Exfoliating Foaming Facial Cleanser Recipe. For even more handmade soap recipes and bath and beauty ideas be sure to follow my DIY Bath and Body board on Pinterest as well for great new recipes you can add to your DIY arsenal every week!


  • Natalie

    November 21, 2013 at 1:39 am

    I’m very new to soap making, but I’ve been pondering over how to make a facial soap made with only non-comedogenic oils. Lately, I’ve been thinking neem, jojoba oils and kokum butter would be best to use. (There seems to be so much controversy as to the comedogenic ratings of olive, coconut, and shea butter oils that I’d just as well avoid those.) This recipe seems like a really great starting point! I like the idea of using sea clay a lot!

    What do you think? I’m still really, really new at creating my own formulas. Is something like this even possible?

    1. Rebecca D. Dillon

      November 21, 2013 at 8:02 pm

      Using only neem, jojoba and kokum butter would not a great bar of soap. You need to add soapmaking oils for their specific properties at a specific range of percentages to get a good bar of soap. SAP values also need to be taken into consideration as some oils/butters have a percentage of unsaponifiables – that is they aren’t converted into soap when mixed with lye. (Kokum butter, like shea butter, is one of those.) Jojoba oil for example shouldn’t make up more than 5-10% of your recipe while shea butter should account for only 3-5%. Neem oil can be used as 10-30% of a soap recipe. Soapcalc.net has a good calc that will give you an idea of what properties your end recipe will have, however you really need to grasp the basics before going too crazy.

  • Ladydarksky

    March 7, 2014 at 7:40 am

    i need a substitute for lye since i am allergic to it, please help!

    1. Rebecca D. Dillon

      March 7, 2014 at 8:16 am

      There is no substitute for lye. All soap is made with lye. You can’t have soap without lye. All the lye is used up and removed from the final product during the saponification process.

  • Brian

    March 19, 2014 at 7:51 pm

    Hello, we tried our own version of your recipe as follows:

    almond oil – 157 g
    Coconut oil – 197 g
    grapeseed oil – 247 g
    Palm oil – 159 g
    Shea butter – 49 g
    olive oil – 119 g
    lye – 134.652
    water – 405 g

    plus: 1 oz sea clay & .5 oz bentonite clay

    no fragrance oils

    Super stoked.. but our bars turned out putty like and very soft.. Any clue why?

    1. Rebecca D. Dillon

      March 20, 2014 at 9:07 pm

      You didn’t discount the water at all so it’ll will take longer for the bars to harden up. I took your recipe and superfatted it at 6% – which gives me 126 grams of lye and 306 grams of water. Hope this helps.

  • Yusuf

    March 19, 2014 at 9:56 pm

    Hi Rebecca,

    Is this soap works with acne? What ingredient you think that mostly help treat
    the acne? Is it the sea salt?

    One more thing,do you have any other soap recipe that especially to treat acne?
    I want to focus on this acne problem cause I’m from Asian country which the weather here is hot and so much people suffered from acne.


    1. Rebecca D. Dillon

      March 20, 2014 at 9:09 pm

      There is no sea salt in the bar. The sea mud or silt acts like a clay to help draw out toxins. The hazelnut oil is used as it has astringent properties. Activated charcoal is also great for helping clear up acne. Here’s a liquid soap recipe with activated charcoal and a bar soap recipe with activated charcoal. A soap made with lavender and tea tree essential oils would also be good for those with acne prone/oily skin.

  • Cre8tive

    March 25, 2014 at 4:38 pm

    Can you substitute glycerine for lye. My son has very bad skin due to eczema. He flairs up from about anything. I’ve made him lotions that help relieve it but now I’m looking to make soaps. I’m afraid that the lye may irritate his eczema. Any suggestions?

    1. Rebecca D. Dillon

      March 25, 2014 at 5:35 pm

      No. You need lye to make soap. Soap is created from fat (oils) and an alkali (lye). Without this there is not soap. Glycerin is only a by-product of the soapmaking process. There is no lye left in the final bar.

      1. cre8tive

        March 26, 2014 at 4:53 pm

        Do you have any recipes to start off with for eczema?
        Many thanks

        1. Rebecca D. Dillon

          March 26, 2014 at 5:12 pm

          I do. In fact I have an entire post dedicated to them. You can find it here.

  • Eleanor

    May 16, 2014 at 9:53 am

    I am a newbie in soap making and will like to try out these recipes but I lack some if not most of the ingredients for making these soaps (I’m from Nigeria). Do you know of a source I can acquire these materials from and have them shipped to my country?
    I will love to be a part of this process. Thanks

  • Jessica

    June 25, 2014 at 11:18 am

    Can the dead sea clay be used in mp process?

  • Selena

    July 22, 2014 at 9:48 pm

    Love your site!!! Can I swap out the Hazelnut for another oil? Also liquid Palm Kernel is same as flakes correct, by weight I mean? Thank you!

    1. Rebecca D. Dillon

      July 22, 2014 at 10:25 pm

      The hazelnut oil is used for it’s astringent properties. Liquid palm kernel oil is not the same as the flakes. You can use the same weights but you’ll have to run it back through a lye calc.

  • Mike Momejian

    August 31, 2014 at 11:56 am

    Hi Rebecca :). I just need a bit of clarification on the clay. Say for instance, all oils add up to 36oz… Now when adding the clay, is it simply added to the mix or an equivalent amount of oil needs to be taken out… In which case a recalculation is to be made??? Thank you in advance:)

    1. Rebecca D. Dillon

      August 31, 2014 at 11:59 am

      The clay is at 4.1% of the total oil weight.

  • Mike Momejian

    September 1, 2014 at 10:33 am

    Is that where the super fat percentage comes in??? 5% allowance pretty much giving you room to add anything else??? Or am I totally off???:)). Excuse my ignorance but I’m new to this so be patient with me. :))
    Ultimately, my question is.. How do you determine what percentage of your total oils will be added as clay and if the super fat % is where the allowance is created for the additive..
    Once again, Thank you Rebecca:))

Comments are closed.

Prev Post Next Post